Though Italy is the birthplace of espresso, its third-wave movement has been slow to grow over the decades—but today, it’s beginning to rise.
BY ISABELLE MANI
BARISTA MAGAZINE ONLINE
Featured photo by Federica Masciullo for Ditta Artigianale
When people think of café culture, they often think of Italy—it is where espresso was invented, after all. Today, Italy is the third-largest coffee-consuming country in Europe and the seventh-largest coffee market in the world—and yet, over the decades, its specialty-coffee movement has been slow to expand.
Coffee, first introduced to Europe through the Port of Venice, has been an integral part of Italian culture since the 16th century. Italy not only invented espresso, but also created all espresso-based milk drinks—including the Americano, which emerged during World War II when American soldiers in Italy diluted espresso with hot water to resemble the milder filter coffee they were used to.
The country also established the barista profession, pioneered and exported the espresso machine, developed many of the brewing techniques used today, and created the blueprint for the entire menu structure of modern international coffee shops—including those of the third-wave movement, which later inspired the foundation of Starbucks. Even the concept of crema on espresso originated in Italy.
Oh, and yes—syrups in coffee? That came from Italy, too.
Pian Piano
Despite this deep-rooted history, specialty coffee in Italy has expanded slowly. Why? Because, for Italians, coffee isn’t a separate entity—it is an intrinsic part of life and national pride. It has always been there, offering quality and passion from north to south. Today, third-wave-style cafés are becoming increasingly present in Italy’s metropolises and modern, innovation-driven cities.
The past nine years of winners in the ‘Best Café’ category of the Barawards by BarGiornale Magazine—recognized as Italy’s “Oscars” in hospitality and gastronomy—clearly reflect this shift. All of these winners are specialty-coffee shops spread across Italy, from Bologna’s Forno Brisa (2023) to Napoli’s Ventimetriquadri (2018) and Bari’s Veronero (2015). Italy’s specialty-coffee scene has expanded significantly in recent years, from just 79 cafés in 2021 to an estimated 200-250 today, according to several SCA Italy members we polled.
“In Italy, there are two types of specialty-coffee customers: those who grab an espresso on the go and stumble upon these places by chance—without much interest in explanations—and those who go there intentionally, curious and willing to be guided by the barista,” says Valentina Palange, a consultant and one of Italy’s leading coffee influencers.
Though Italy’s specialty-coffee market is smaller than that of other Western European countries, it’s projected to grow at a CAGR of 13% between 2022 and 2030, according to CBI data. Valentina shares that traditional weekend coffee gatherings throughout Italy are starting to be enjoyed differently, particularly among young professionals in their late 20s and early 30s. “Now, it’s about having daytime experiences, where people enjoy traditional or pourover coffee options alongside brunch or an international-style lunch, exploring new flavors,” Valentina says.
Focusing on Quality Over Labels
So, are specialty cafés singled out as “specialty-coffee shops” by Italians? Not necessarily—that’s not the point. The difference is that in Italy, these cafés have earned consumers’ trust, even with higher ticket prices, by delivering what Italians expect as the baseline for a coffee experience: impeccable service, craftsmanship, a welcoming space to read the newspaper and enjoy a pastry, and, most importantly, flavor and quality in the cup.
Bia Francini, director of Il Sole, a luxury travel and experiences agency based in Florence, believes Italians are increasingly prioritizing quality—but that doesn’t mean they recognize or care about the term “specialty coffee.”
“There is a growing awareness of better coffee, but most Italians wouldn’t be able to define what ’specialty coffee’ actually means. They just know when a coffee tastes great,” she says. “The experience matters too, but at the end of the day, quality in the cup is still what makes the difference.”
Matteo Colaci, an Italian roasting and quality consultant currently based in Ireland, has been in the coffee industry for 11 years. Having observed the evolution of Italy’s specialty-coffee market from both within and beyond its borders, he sees Italy’s late-blooming specialty-coffee movement not as a flaw, but as something uniquely its own.
“Unlike Northern Europe, where businesses prioritize volume and automation, Italian specialty-coffee professionals are focused on mastering the craft and engaging with customers,“ Matteo says. “It reminds me of Berlin’s specialty-coffee scene 10 years ago—there’s integrity and a purist approach as cafés build a new clientele from the ground up.“
Isabelle Mani (she/her) is a writer, journalist, and communicator specializing in the international coffee industry. Since 2017, she has focused on writing articles and features for various international coffee news outlets. Isabelle has traveled to coffee-producing countries such as Colombia, Kenya, Rwanda, China, and Brazil to study and research coffee. She holds training certifications from the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA) and the Coffee Quality Institute (Arabica Q Grading).
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